Sorry it has been so long since my last post. I've been down on the islands of Thailand where internet is ridiculously expensive so I've had to postpone my blogging for a bit. I'm now back in bangkok and tonight I'm headed to India. I'm excited for new adventures but a bit nervous as well as I've heard some horror stories. But I'm just going to try to relax into the insanity. Plus, I've got the added benefit that Joanna will be there, at least at the beginning to help me get my India legs.
So, let's see, a lot and not a lot has happened to me in the past week and a half. First, I endured about four days of over-land travel to get from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh to Bangkok to Krabi. It was a series of busses, trains and squishy mini-bus. My bus from Phnom Penh to Bangkok was supposed to take 10 hours and it took 14. I paid extra for the "first class bus" but if that was first class, I don't want to see last. More likely, I got taken. Anyway, at the border I had to switch to a mini-bus, which would have been fine, but the driver made about 10 stops, dropping off the cheap cigarettes he bought at the Cambodian border, going to McDonalds 20 minutes outside of Bangkok, picking up and dropping off passengers, the list goes on. I was losing my mind, wishing I'd flown.
After a day at the weekend market in Bangkok, I took the train down to Krabi. Again, I should have just flown, but well, I was trying to save money. And by the time I realized that I wanted to buy a train ticket, well, there was only fan left. So, I figured, it'll be at night, no problem. Well, yes, it wasn't actually that hot. But it was buggy because the windows were open, loud and stuffy.
On top of that, I had these Thai ladies across from me who were very interested in everything I
looking that great by the end no matter what.did, I think because foreigners aren't usually in the fan car. They were kind of strange, kept fixing their make-up and stuff. Seemed
a bit prissy. And then, all of a sudden, a tree kind of whipped one of them in the face, (because the window was open) which knocked the chips out of her hand. She kind of jumps and then quickly grabs her make-up and starts fixing up her face again. Now, mind you, we're on an overnight train. In a fan car. Can't really be
Anyway, I managed to get to Krabi through a series buses and trains, however, I felt I had won a victory because I bought my bus ticket when I got off the train instead of in Bangkok, thus saving myself 120 Baht (about 4 dollars.) Ah yes, it is the little things. I beat them at their own game. Krabi was an odd little town. There was some sort of festival going on, but I couldn't quite figure out what it was for. Lots of people all in white, sort of seeming like they were doing
capoiera or something. Anyway, didn't love Krabi, but I did manage to go kayaking there, which is what I went there for. It was pretty incredible. Kayaked through these caves, saw some cave paintings, saw a set of lizard-type things that I guess have been around since pre-historic times. It fills its cheeks with water and then lives on land for while using the stored water. I got a few photos, but of course, I didn't have the big lens on at the time. Also saw a king fisher bird, which I guess is pretty rare. Ruth, Dad, other birdwatchers, you know about that one? Similar to the lizard problem, camouflaged and small lens. So don't be too excited about the photos. The guide was pretty good. He wouldn't let us use flash inside the cave because it ruins the paintings, picked up cigarette butts, etc. I felt good that hopefully I was giving my money to a company that is doing something to help the environment of Thailand. The guide was also quite knowledgeable, so for once I felt like I was getting my money's worth. Sadly I was with two fat Indian guys who live in Dubai who were a bit lazy on the kayaking, so it was a short stint of actually doing anything. Anyway, was a nice day.
Next I moved on to Railay, some of the best climbing in South East Asia. Well, as you may have guessed, I haven't done much of well, any exercise in the past four months. So here I am ready to do 2 days of climbing on 80m walls. Yes, was a bit painful, but also amazing. You have these views of the clearest green water and white sandy beaches. Just so thrilling. I had to re-get over my fear of heights and try to remember some of my climbing skill, like turn my body, but overall, was fantastic. By the end of the two days my legs were ridiculously bruised, my muscles ached and I had ripped up my hands. But it was all worth it. Here's a photo of my instructor, Tik. He was pretty awesome. Called everything lovely. Which is pretty funny coming from a Thai guy.
Railay was an interesting mix. There are three areas where you could stay. I chose to stay at the more budget area which felt a bit cramped. There were resorts built on every possible inch of the place. When I first got there I thought I was going to lose my mind trying to find a guest house. I walked from the boat with this other single traveler named Ana. We thought maybe we could bargain for two rooms. So we find one place, we talk to the guy, bargain him down to 300 baht for a fan room. Walk all the way up the hill, oh they don't have any fan rooms. Go to another place, it is beautiful, bargain down to 400 baht for each room, go see the rooms, they are like
dankest, nastiest rooms on the island. The rest of the place was awesome but I guess they were showing me the bottom of the barrel. Go to about 3 other places, all around the area, it is hot, carrying my backpack, etc. Finally end up back at the first place! I just give in and pay the 500 baht for air/con, hot water. Oh, and then my hot water doesn't work. I go down to the reception, talk to the woman about it. She says, do you want to change rooms. Yes, please. Someone else comes in, what is the problem, I explain. Okay, follow this woman. So I follow a worker there who doesn't speak any English. She goes about 5 steps towards my room, sees her friend and goes the other direction. I'm like, am I supposed to follow you? She looks at me like, who are you? So I get her to go back to reception, where they speak English. Explain for the third time. They are like, okay, follow her (again, same girl). This time she goes to my room. Checks it, yup, doesn't work. We go back to reception. They talk a bunch in Thai. Do you want to change rooms? I'm ready to lose. Yes...please. Ok, but the room isn't ready. Wait 10 minutes for them to clean it. Ahhh. Okay, well it gets worked out in the end. But there are so many times where I think we've communicated when clearly, we haven't. Ah well.
Had a funny experience eating a papaya salad in Krabi as well. I've really developed my spice-ability, or so I thought. I got a papaya salad from this woman who runs and internet cafe/tailor shop/restaurant/travel agency/whatever else you need. Anyway, figured it would be pretty good since those are the best places. She asks me how many chilis. I say, mmm, 2? Oh my buddha. My eyes were watering. My nose running. My pulse quickened, I was sweating. But it was so good I couldn't stop. My esauphogus was burning. The women were laughing at me. They just looking over being like, you okay? I'm trying to look half-way normal, fine fine. Finally the daughter comes up and offers me some sticky rice. Clearly I should have ordered some to go with my meal, eh? It was hilarious.
Let's see, what else. Well, I love it when the locals try to look out for you. I went in to a pharmacy yesterday to buy some sunblock and a new toothbrush. The woman is like, oh toothbrush, do you also need toothpaste. I'm like, no thanks I have some. Then I get some sunblock. She's like, be sure to reapply every 2 hours. Funny. Then I had a guy who works at a restaurant whose job it is to bring in people. He's kind of an older guy. Anyway, finds out I'm traveling alone and can't really understand that. He's like, oh there's an Austrian woman traveling alone, maybe you can travel together. Then I come back later, oh these kids are going out to the halloween party, maybe you can go with them. On and on. Just very worried I might be alone.
The south of Thailand was interesting. First of all, it is mostly Muslim which is really different from the Buddhist north. So you've got women in Burkas driving motos, fabric flying behind them. Also, in general, tons of fat Thai people. Super strange, haven't seen that anywhere else in Asia. I had a nice time in Koh Lanta, an island near Railay but it was pretty quiet. I'm not sure if everyone was at the full moon party in Ko Phagnan or what, but there was just no one around. A few families and couples. Luckily, a german couple and these two Irish guys that I had met in Railay also ended up in Koh Lanta, so I sometimes had people to have dinner with. But mostly it was a chill solitary time. Rode a moto out to a cave, laid on the beach, went snorkeling, general beach time experience. It was nice and just what I was looking for before India, but I did start to get a bit antsy by the end. Oh, the full moon, where I thought there would be a party, was quite tame. But they do set off these cool flare things that work under the principles of hot air balloons. There is a silk bag thing that goes around wax that you light and when it gets hot enough it flies up into the sky. Quite pretty, I think it happens across South East Asia on November full moon. Supposed to be for good luck. Joe, one of the Irish guys had bought three, so we each set one off. Sadly, they were the small kind and they never really got off the ground. So, I don't think my wish will come true. Ah well.
Well, I think that's about it for now. Am going to get a thai massage, eat some curry and possibly hit up a movie today before my flight tonight. I considered doing something touristy, but well, I guess I'm lazy. And I think India will be a re-start on that side of things, so I'm mostly just enjoying my last time in Thailand. Alright, 2.5 weeks until I go home.
Cheers,
Dina
Isn't climbing in Thailand amazing? I was there back in 2003, before the Tsunami; would love to see pics of Railay to see how it's changed.
ReplyDeleteAnd, I think the "lizard things" you saw were actually fish (if I"m interpreting your description correctly)! They are called mud-skippers. They hold water in their gills so they can "breathe on land" and crawl out of the water. V. cool creatures. As for the bird, there are lot's of species of kingfishers and some are rare to Thailand, so maybe it was one of those.
Have some Pad Thai for me.
- Tim Zim