Hanoi, how can I possibly explain the insanity of Hanoi? Crossing the street was my biggest nemesis. The streets are generally about two lanes each direction, but it is about 8 deep of motorcycles. They beep like crazy and swerve past each other. Then there's the bicycles, cyclos, cars, trucks and buses. There are very few stoplights, so to get across you basically have to start walking and, very slowly move across one by one, letting some past you and holding your course as best you can as they swerve around you. It is basically like skiing. You've got your fast and your slow, and basically the fast go around you. Just don't make any sudden movements or stop or turn back because that will completely confuse them and they might hit you. I had a very near miss when I freaked out and couldn't keep going. Even on the five lane roads, people are crossing, going the wrong direction, etc. It is totally, completely nuts.
Really, they are incredible drivers and super focused. And actually not going that fast because there are so many vehicles going so many different directions. Oh, and the sidewalks aren't much better. They are filled with people selling everything you can think of: silk, pho, cheap crap made in china, shoes, knives, etc. So walking on the sidewalks aren't really a respite as motorbikes pull up onto the sidewalk to park on a regular basis right in front of you. It really does something for heightening your awareness of what is going on around you. This is all on top of 100 degree heat and around 60% humidity. Plus, people constantly trying to sell you things like rides, make you hold their fruit (two baskets on either end of a long stick that goes over their shoulder-you'd be surprised at how heavy it is) and wear their conical hat, take a picture, then buy their fruit--at tourist prices. Basically walking a few blocks was completely exhausting and you are completely drenched in sweat by the end.
But, we did have a really good time in Hanoi. There's so much to tell so I'll just have to give the overview. Let's see, we saw the temple of literature, where we got a private traditional music show, we took a cooking class, where the teacher was hilarious. Her english was great and cracked us up the entire time, regaling us with stories about things like when she used to take kung fu, but then her mom made her stop because she was so strong she looked like a man, and other exploits. We learned to make spring rolls (mine weren't so round) and grilled meat and the sauces. Plus they gave me a carrot peeler thing because I thought it was cool and it was my birthday. Later that evening Matt surprised me with cake from one of the local bakeries, complete with a candle and everything. It was super cute.
Let's see, we also went to the museum of ethnology which was really interesting. Also, the revolution museum. Vietnam has a really fascinating history. Basically, a bunch of different countries have tried to rule and they fought back over and over. It is kind of like Israel. We saw a water puppetry performance which was impressive. ,We did some shopping, ate good food-including a hot pot--basically a boiling pot of broth where you put still squirming shrimp, and lots of other seafood, greens, tofu, seaweed and it cooks right in front of you. Fantastic.
We tried to go on this boat trip to Halong bay, but a typhoon was coming and the bus had to turn around about five minutes after we got in it.
So, we ended up going to SaPa, a mountain town a few km from China, with hilltribe people. It was similar to some of the mountain towns I had been to in Laos and Thailand. The difference was the amount of tourism there. Because companies run all-inclusive tours up there (which is actually what we did for the sake of ease) there are so many more tourists there. Which has basically turned their town into a begging center of women trying to sell the stuff they supposedly made. It is so bad that you literally cannot look at them or they will start saying, "you buy from me?" and just keep going until you can shake them by walking quickly or just ignoring them. The town itself is absolutely beautiful and we did two guided hikes with a really cute guide , maybe 4ft on a good day with heels on, who was from one of the local villages and had lots of local knowledge. She'd never been to school yet her English was quite good. However, I found the whole place a bit depressing because of the way that tourism has kind of ruined their way of life. It really made me wonder about what development is. I figure there is more money there now and I was happy to buy a couple bracelets at the end of our hike that were kind of like a donation. I'm hoping that I helped to feed some children. But the constant barrage is not only incredibly irritating, you just feel sorry for them. I can't quite figure out why it seems so much worse than in these other touristy towns where their main economy also comes from tourism. I guess it is something about the disruption of rural life where people had this really simple life at one point and now are just as capitalist focused as everyone else.
Okay, I should get out and do something with my day. I'm actually in Hue now, having left Matt at the airport on his way to Japan. Sadly our week is over and I'm back on my own. It is weird because I have no where really to be until Nov. 5 when I fly to Delhi. Of course, I've got some sort of idea, but it is weird to be very free of deadlines or required places.
I'll leave with you one last story about Hanoi. I flew to Hanoi from Vientiane (talk about a crappy city but anyway), and on the flight I sat next to another foreigner. So we started talking, and at baggage claim picked up two other travelers. So, we all get a taxi into the city, and we've hear stories about how crazy Hanoi is. Alright, we drive in, it is nuts, as I explained earlier. And we drive up to this hotel. We've asked to go to the Hanoi backpackers hostel. This guy opens my door, and starts screaming, 'Hanoi Backpackers Hostel' and shoves an old bent up card in my face. I look out and it is clearly NOT the hostel, although their is a big "backpackers" written on the door, there is another name of hotel on top. Very clearly, this is another hotel. He's not wearing the shirt, etc. He keeps saying, 'get out, get out, backpackers hostel'. We're like, 'no, we're not getting out, this is not it'. Then he really gets angry,' fine, we're full'. We're like, 'that's fine, we want to go to the hostel, driver, take us to the hostel, now'. He closes my door and I lock it. Then he opens the drivers door, and does it again. We're like, we'd have to be morons to believe you. Finally, we show the driver the map and he says, 'oh, I know, I know' acting all innocent in the whole thing. Meanwhile, his phone was ringing constantly on our trip over there, I'm sure he was setting it up. So then he does take us to the right place. Quite an introduction to Hanoi. We laugh. It was good to be with other people.
Okay, I'll try to add some photos this evening, although actually Matt has most of them on his camera. Thanks for all the birthday wishes. I have officially entered my thirties, I'm sure I'm much wiser now.
Really, they are incredible drivers and super focused. And actually not going that fast because there are so many vehicles going so many different directions. Oh, and the sidewalks aren't much better. They are filled with people selling everything you can think of: silk, pho, cheap crap made in china, shoes, knives, etc. So walking on the sidewalks aren't really a respite as motorbikes pull up onto the sidewalk to park on a regular basis right in front of you. It really does something for heightening your awareness of what is going on around you. This is all on top of 100 degree heat and around 60% humidity. Plus, people constantly trying to sell you things like rides, make you hold their fruit (two baskets on either end of a long stick that goes over their shoulder-you'd be surprised at how heavy it is) and wear their conical hat, take a picture, then buy their fruit--at tourist prices. Basically walking a few blocks was completely exhausting and you are completely drenched in sweat by the end.
But, we did have a really good time in Hanoi. There's so much to tell so I'll just have to give the overview. Let's see, we saw the temple of literature, where we got a private traditional music show, we took a cooking class, where the teacher was hilarious. Her english was great and cracked us up the entire time, regaling us with stories about things like when she used to take kung fu, but then her mom made her stop because she was so strong she looked like a man, and other exploits. We learned to make spring rolls (mine weren't so round) and grilled meat and the sauces. Plus they gave me a carrot peeler thing because I thought it was cool and it was my birthday. Later that evening Matt surprised me with cake from one of the local bakeries, complete with a candle and everything. It was super cute.
Let's see, we also went to the museum of ethnology which was really interesting. Also, the revolution museum. Vietnam has a really fascinating history. Basically, a bunch of different countries have tried to rule and they fought back over and over. It is kind of like Israel. We saw a water puppetry performance which was impressive. ,We did some shopping, ate good food-including a hot pot--basically a boiling pot of broth where you put still squirming shrimp, and lots of other seafood, greens, tofu, seaweed and it cooks right in front of you. Fantastic.
We tried to go on this boat trip to Halong bay, but a typhoon was coming and the bus had to turn around about five minutes after we got in it.
So, we ended up going to SaPa, a mountain town a few km from China, with hilltribe people. It was similar to some of the mountain towns I had been to in Laos and Thailand. The difference was the amount of tourism there. Because companies run all-inclusive tours up there (which is actually what we did for the sake of ease) there are so many more tourists there. Which has basically turned their town into a begging center of women trying to sell the stuff they supposedly made. It is so bad that you literally cannot look at them or they will start saying, "you buy from me?" and just keep going until you can shake them by walking quickly or just ignoring them. The town itself is absolutely beautiful and we did two guided hikes with a really cute guide , maybe 4ft on a good day with heels on, who was from one of the local villages and had lots of local knowledge. She'd never been to school yet her English was quite good. However, I found the whole place a bit depressing because of the way that tourism has kind of ruined their way of life. It really made me wonder about what development is. I figure there is more money there now and I was happy to buy a couple bracelets at the end of our hike that were kind of like a donation. I'm hoping that I helped to feed some children. But the constant barrage is not only incredibly irritating, you just feel sorry for them. I can't quite figure out why it seems so much worse than in these other touristy towns where their main economy also comes from tourism. I guess it is something about the disruption of rural life where people had this really simple life at one point and now are just as capitalist focused as everyone else.
Okay, I should get out and do something with my day. I'm actually in Hue now, having left Matt at the airport on his way to Japan. Sadly our week is over and I'm back on my own. It is weird because I have no where really to be until Nov. 5 when I fly to Delhi. Of course, I've got some sort of idea, but it is weird to be very free of deadlines or required places.
I'll leave with you one last story about Hanoi. I flew to Hanoi from Vientiane (talk about a crappy city but anyway), and on the flight I sat next to another foreigner. So we started talking, and at baggage claim picked up two other travelers. So, we all get a taxi into the city, and we've hear stories about how crazy Hanoi is. Alright, we drive in, it is nuts, as I explained earlier. And we drive up to this hotel. We've asked to go to the Hanoi backpackers hostel. This guy opens my door, and starts screaming, 'Hanoi Backpackers Hostel' and shoves an old bent up card in my face. I look out and it is clearly NOT the hostel, although their is a big "backpackers" written on the door, there is another name of hotel on top. Very clearly, this is another hotel. He's not wearing the shirt, etc. He keeps saying, 'get out, get out, backpackers hostel'. We're like, 'no, we're not getting out, this is not it'. Then he really gets angry,' fine, we're full'. We're like, 'that's fine, we want to go to the hostel, driver, take us to the hostel, now'. He closes my door and I lock it. Then he opens the drivers door, and does it again. We're like, we'd have to be morons to believe you. Finally, we show the driver the map and he says, 'oh, I know, I know' acting all innocent in the whole thing. Meanwhile, his phone was ringing constantly on our trip over there, I'm sure he was setting it up. So then he does take us to the right place. Quite an introduction to Hanoi. We laugh. It was good to be with other people.
Okay, I'll try to add some photos this evening, although actually Matt has most of them on his camera. Thanks for all the birthday wishes. I have officially entered my thirties, I'm sure I'm much wiser now.
Here's a photo of me having pizza. I was so excited. Sometimes you just need a little break from Asian food. Sadly, it was more like cheese and tomoato on a cracker, but it hit the spot anyway.
XOXO
Dina
XOXO
Dina
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